2 shades of grey

Hmmmm

There’s a few techniques used locally to deal with the bike ban. You can ignore it, you can give up on the mountain bike, you can stick to the man-made trails and you can go elsewhere. You can also have a look at the Arrete du Maire, try and find a loophole, and hope for the best.

The arrete lists 12 exceptions to the July & August bike ban, most of which are listed in the official Chamonix bike map (which you can also get a paper copy from the tourist info and bike shops around town) but there’s 2 in particular which aren’t.

Chalet Caillet descent

So, armed with a paper print out of the arrete should I stumble across any gendarmes, I headed up Brevant and dropped into the “Couloir du Brevant”. There’s a few trails down from the Brevant lifts via the couloir, Sentier des Gardes probably being the best of the permitted ways (bikes are completely banned from the national park that the trails from the top lift pass) however the path leaves the couloir, so instead I stayed on the tech rocky singletrack all the way down. Verdict? A nice change from the man-made tracks in the valley, I didn’t get arrested and all the walkers I met were very friendly, but you do feel like you’re missing the best riding.

Climbing on the James Bond track

A couple of evenings later Rob & I headed up by the Montenvers railway to test the grey areas further. The arrete lists “sortie de la VALLEE BLANCHE” as a green light for bikes. The infamous James Bond track, a 4×4 path used both to access the Roches de Mottets buvette and as a descent into Chamonix from the Vallee Blanche ski in winter, is probably what was meant but I’ve sortied from the Vallee Blanche a lot of ways, so….

Start of the descent

We headed up to Chalet Caillet at a relaxed pace, passing a few walkers in the opposite direction and hoping to let the last few descend the path before we started. Whilst the climb up to the chalet is mostly on 4×4 track, the descent is pure singletrack, and one of the best circular loops in the valley.

Natural trails rock

If you want to give the Caillet a go, and it’s completely at your own risk if you do, definitely go either before the Montenvers railway opens or leave it till the evening. The descent track isn’t wide and  much better if you’re not stopping every 20 meters. It’s a popular walk and in the middle of the day that’s also what you’ll be doing.

And if you get caught and the “but officer, this IS a descent from the Vallee Blanche” argument doesn’t work, don’t blame me!

First chair, last col – Les Portes du Mont Blanc

Trail map, for bikes!

Tuesday seemed to be a popular day for getting out of Chamonix. Groups were heading to Pila, La Thuile and the road cols of the Aravais. True to our Scottish roots, Lorne & I chose to make the 45 minute drive to the area with the cheapest lift pass, the Portes du Mont Blanc. 12.50euro for a day pass still represents a fair outlay in Irn Bru mind, so we were there for the 1st bin and rode till they closed the lifts on us.

So what was the riding like? Very different to Chamonix. A break down of the riding around each lift is below, but the need to knows are: if you’ve got a DH or Freeride bike, head to Megeve and play under the Pres chair and Jaillet gondola. If you’ve got an everyday MTB, head where ever you feel like, you’ll not be over or under biked.

Lorne gap

The trail map is available online here: http://www.combloux.com/images/stories/decouvrir/plans/plan-vtt-2.pdf  or you can pick up a copy at the ticket offices or tourist info, having it open in another tab will make the descriptions below easier! There are bike maintenance and washing points dotted around the bases of the lifts and a fair few of the mountain restaurants are open if you forgot your baguettes. Again, all of these are marked on the map

Lifts open from a civilised 1000 and close at 1700 with a break from 1300 to 1400. We used the lunch break to ride over the non lift accessed trails from Ball Trap to Praz-sur-Arly and, preferring the trails off the Pres chair to the slopes above Megeve, we rode there for last chair before descending directly to Megeve from the Col du Jaillet side via the base of TS Pres.

The whole area is much quieter than the Chamonix valley, both with walkers and cyclists. Away from the Pres & Jaillet lifts we didn’t see any bikes, though there was a good mix of families on hire bikes and top end DH machinery out. Walkers were all very friendly, but remember the trails are shared so control your inner Danny Hart.

Under TS Pres

Ball Trap / TS Pres

I could have happily lapped red 8 & 17 for most of the day. 17 is the faster and more man-made of the two, with smooth running berms and small but well formed doubles and step-ups that look pretty forgiving if you come up short.

Lorne double

8 is more natural, more roots and some loam, but with the deft touch of a good trail builder enhancing what nature came up with. If you really want a break from the steep tech of Chamonix, this is a great tonic. There’s also a cruisier blue snaking down with less incline and some fire road for less confident riders

Combloux / TS Pertuis

We didn’t ride any of the lower trails, accessed by the free bike bus shuttle, partly because the buses run on 30 minute rotations and we didn’t want to lose any time, but mostly as we were pretty disappointed by the trails under the chair. Red 12 starts out promisingly enough on some playful singletrack shared with a blue run, then turns to fire road for most of its 4.5km. Red 16 just starts on fire road. The blue 11 looked like it had promise from sections glanced at, but we were already moving on (EDIT! Lorne went back a week later, and said…“checked out blue 11 down towards Combloux, really nice high swooping berms at the top, some BMXy whoops in the middle then mellow turns through the forest onto the road” so there you go, our top tip for that side of the hill!).  Descents from the summit all the way down to the lake at Passy are possible from here, and 1300m of DH to end in a swim would be worth a go, but overall, we were fairly underwhelmed.

Megeve / TC Jaillet

For the uplift, the bikes are hung by the rear wheel from the gondola, if you’re of a nervous disposition about your stanchions then you might want to lag them, though no one was and I didn’t feel the bike was going to get trashed. The marked red 13 isn’t particularly memorable, however the unmarked freeride/northshore trail that runs next to it is much more interesting.

Megeve Northshore

Now that the features at Les Houches and in the woods above Les Praz are no more, this is probably the nearest place to Chamonix if that’s your bag

Le Plan / TS Torraz

Tricky one as the lift is closed for the whole summer, so several black and red runs which go to its base are closed for the year, unless you fancy a real slog back. This is a real shame as there looks to be the best potential for natural trails and some big enduro days in the area from here, ho hum. You can loop round to the top of the Christomet chair which accesses most of the trails from the top of the Pres & Pertuis chairs by following the signs for 6, 12 19, & 20 then, after the singletrack descent, contouring round on the fire road. The undulations look worse than they are and you’re quickly at the top of the (closed) chair where you can either follow the black 5 back to TS Pres (which we didn’t) or continue on to red 25 & 22 towards Praz-sur-Arly.

Near TS Christomet

After previous disappointment with red fire road, we were keen to avoid the same here and were considering using a single dashed black line on the IGN map. In the end we lost the track and ended up on a locals trail that took us on about 600m vert of loam (another rarely seen commodity in Chamonix) down to Villard.

Hidden trail

I don’t know the local etiquette on hidden trails, so I’m not giving any more clues, but it’s not too hard to find from the walkers trail, just look out for the tyre tracks…

Praz-sur-Arly / TS Cret du Midi

First off, if you find yourself in Villard, Villaret or such whilst trying to get to Praz, don’t bother with the trails, just take the road! Moving on, there’s not been much effort put into the tracks here, some bike hangers for the chairs (from the front wheel this time, check that QR…) and a few signs. The lift is also closed on Mondays & Fridays.

Praz-sur-Arly

The black 24 run follows a walkers trail complete with slippy log steps and rubble strewn double track. Despite this it’s a lot of fun, swoopy sections through meadows, fast leaf covered tracks through deciduous trees and some serious mud.

Alps or borders? You decide...

Last bit’s not so good admittedly, but we liked it despite this. There’s a long cruisy blue (21 & 39) that takes you downhill from the top into Megeve which looks like an easy way to get back, but with rotations on the looooong chair taking 25 minutes, and 1hr till last lift back at TS Pres, we skipped it to put the saddles up and heads down for a 10 minute blast up the road back to Megeve.

Definitely somewhere to head back to for more exploring, particularly once the Torraz chair re-opens. The potential for some really long rides here is great, and it’s refreshing to ride somewhere that bikes seem encouraged and welcomed….

The opening weekend for the area includes a series of XC and enduro races and a week long VTT festival. Dates aren’t up yet for next years, but the 1st weekend in July would be a reasonable guess.

Le VTT et les Vaches…

Moooo

Whilst bikes seem to be getting discouraged in some areas of the valley, they’re looking more and more welcome up at Le Tour.  There’s some sort of link in the alps where the more suitable the terrain is for cows, the more bikes are welcomed.  After all, Morzine is known locally as the mountain for the cows.

As the trains aren’t running from Vallorcine this summer (more information here: http://www.thechamonixbikebook.com/news/2012-the-year-there-wasnt-a-train/ if you’ve not already heard)we had to wait for the Vallorcine gondola to finally open at the start of July before the full potential of Le Tour could be enjoyed (well, unless you’ve got the legs for cycling all the way back round).

Back bowls Le TourVallorcine DH

To complement the fun but short DH track under the Charamillon gondola, work is almost finished on a new track from the top of the Autannes chairlift.  Compagnie du Mont Blanc seem to be investing a fair bit of money on the track, with a large excavator being used to construct some large features and new bridges being built. The track is already getting ridden, despite being closed for construction (“Ferme” means “good riding” right?) and looks to be bedding in well, as for how well it actually rides, we’ll see.

More Vallorcine DH

Over on the other side of the hill, the Vallorcine DH track is open and has had some much needed maintenance. It’s now riding incredibly well, with good course markings out for anyone who’s not hit it before, unlike most of last year… This track is one of the best around, and almost good enough reason to own a big bike just to hit it. Don’t worry though, it’s still negotiable on a hardtail, just don’t expect to feel too fresh by the finish.

Locals have been busy building on the lower section. It’s not an official part of the track, but it’s definitely more fun than the fireroad to finish off the run back to the gondola, just watch out for some of the gaps!

Descending to Catogne

The rest of the area serves up some of the best natural trails in the Chamonix valley, with tracks criss-crossing between Switzerland and France. A new info board was in the process of being erected at the Refuge de Col du Balme which designated the classic descent into Trient as a walkers trail, and the excellent Les Jeurs run to Chatelard as a bike trail. (If you’re not sure about these trails, and can’t work it out from the IGN map3630 OT, then these and more are in the new Chamonix Bike Guide http://www.thechamonixbikebook.com/the-book/ ). There didn’t seem to be any indication of how obligatory these designations were, I can’t see walkers being any happier about losing the Les Jeurs path than bikers about being banned from the Trient run, so I guess we just have to wait and see what develops.

The Trient run currently has a wee diversion above the village for forestry work, however the diversion trail is of good quality and the descent is still up there as one of the best enduro style runs about.

Climb from Col du BalmeThe Rock'it

Finally, just to prove that we don’t need bikes worth more than cars to have fun, following an entertaining mornings climbing in the Aiguille Rouge, we descended on the Elfe Secret track at Flegere with a motley selection of pub bikes and decade old mountain bikes, complete with our climbing gear. It wasn’t the fastest the track’s ever been ridden, and certainly not the most competently, but there was way more laughter than you hear from many storm troopers on 8” play bikes.

Colin & Ally

Flegere

Ferme

The bike tracks at Flegere were never going to win any awards or become cult favourites but they still make for a good workout in quality surroundings, so I was pretty disappointed to find out that the bike racks aren’t going to be put on the Index chairlift for the rest of the summer. The liftie didn’t think it was the end of VTT above 1900m, but certainly we’ve lost the 2 tracks that drop the 700m vert from the top.

Lift board

To make matters worse, there’s been forestry work about 1/3 of the way down the remaining bike track and the re-instated track is just a wee bitty lacking compared to the original….

Flegere forestry work

Still, it’s not all bad news. The Tramway du Mont Blanc, starting from Le Fayet now has it’s last tram at 1730 rather than 1540, giving more time to do some of the many trails down from Les Houches, Servoz & Plaine Joux and get back with some more DH rather than just taking the train.

Perhaps more usefully, the bike bus returns from the 7th July till 31st August. Full timetables here: http://www.chamonix.name/pdf/chambus.pdf  but if clicking a link is too much for you, here’s the details:

Bikebus timetable

Crisortunity….

Pop culture has it that the Chinese have the same word for crisis as opportunity (they don’t, but it makes for an easy intro to the blog if we pretend they do). The idea that a forced change, whilst unwelcome, can be for the better. It’s much the same just now in Chamonix with the start of the July & August bike ban. No one wants to stop riding the trails they enjoy, but it’s good to be made to think outside the box a little and try some new places too. That and the trails are generally that hoaching with walkers it’s difficult to get any real flow.

Aig Posettes

If you want to stay in the valley, there’s still plenty of trails open for bikes, enough keep anyone visiting busy for a few days at least. The Chamonix Bike Guide has written an excellent summary of these trails here: http://www.chamonixbikeguide.com/2012/06/july-august-bike-ban-whats-rideable.html

As for the other option, trying some new trails, well, why not? Here’s some links to some bike friendly uplift within 1hr (well, 1hr ish) of Chamonix. Should keep us busy for 2 months…..

Verbier

Portes du Soleil:  http://en.portesdusoleil.com/mountain-bike-trekking.html

Grand Massif: http://www.grand-massif.com/ete/appreciez_vtt.php

Portes du Mont blanc: http://www.combloux.com/fr/activites/ete/la-montagne/vtt.html

Verbier: http://www.verbierbikepark.ch/

La Thuile: http://www.lathuile.net/datapage.asp?id=191&l=3

Pila: http://www.pilaturismo.it/en/index.cfm/mountain-bike.html

Courmayeur

And if you’re not wanting to spend the money on a lift pass (you spent it all on the Chamonix pass?) then a bit further afield is Saas Fee and Tignes, both with FREE uplift this summer!

Escape from the valley

The trails straight above Chamonix are amazing, but generally steep and tech, with roots and rocks abounding. After some pretty wet weather had passed through it seemed a better idea to ride some more flowing singletrack whilst the rocks and roots dried out. We headed down the valley past Vaudagne and out to Servoz to start the long road climb up to the Lac Vert car park. The views help take your mind off the legs and the promise of a rest at the fountain in the middle of the road at Le Mont keeps you going. Alas, the fountain is no more, so remember to fill up the water bottle in Servoz!

At least you know you've started on the right trail...

The descent of Les Trois Gouillies was as good as ever, though possibly a bit slippier than ideal for those who were dropping the trail for the first time…. There’s a plethora of trails to choose from, the new Chamonix Bike Book give probably the best line if you’re not sure where you’re going.

Chamonix biking, it's not all tech switchbacksFlegere

From the old Servoz road we kept going down to Chedde and Le Fayet for a coffee before catching the train back up to Chamonix. The various free passes for transport don’t work after Servoz, so make sure you get your ticket before getting on the train, it’s much cheaper!

Such a civilised way to end a ride

Back in Chamonix the increased bike traffic is helping to clear the worst of the winter’s loose rocks off the bike trails making things a bit more consistent, although you still canny take your bike up the Index chair due the amount of snow still up there.

Beaucoup de neiges

Almost all the bike uplift is now running in the Chamonix valley, with just the Vallorcine and Grand Montets telecabines left to open on the 30th June. Pretty much all the walking trails off the lifts are clear of trees and the “Elfe Secret” track at Flegere was nearly clear on Monday and should be clear by now.

Flegere, open for business...

There is a wee fly in the ointment though, whilst the Brevant telecabine and Index chairlift are running, bikes aren’t being allowed on for just now as there’s too much snow to ride! The lifties reckon the Index will be open for bikes next week, hopefully the trails from the top of Brevant will be passable soon too. Till then, it’s time to get as much natural riding in as possible before the bike ban starts on the 1st July!

Chamonix Bike Book 2012 & interview

Chamonix bike book

4 years after the last update of the Chamonix Bike Guide, a.k.a. the “green book” Tom Wilson-North and collaborator Angus Patterson have created an all new 168 page, all colour version. Want to know more about the book, the author, biking in Chamonix or just looking to kill 10 minutes?

Read on.

So, how long have you been here and how did you end up in Chamonix

I’ve been in Chamonix since 2006, and believe it or not, before I got here I hadn’t been on a bike for a good ten years. Biking was something new; I’d come to Chamonix for snowboarding and the winter scene, and as the snow melted the snowboard shop I’d got a job in started filling up with bikes. As soon as I bought my first proper bike, an old Big Hit, and started riding it…well, I was hooked.

What gave you the inspiration for the 1st book?

I wrote the first book, Mountain Bike Guide – Chamonix Mont Blanc in 2008.. So I’d spent two years hunting trails before I wrote that. You wouldn’t believe the hours I spent pushing up dead-end jeep tracks, climbing down massive great ladders set in the rock and walking my bike down impossibly steep switchbacks.

How does this one differ from the original, more rides or a new style?

The Chamonix Bike Book is an entirely new concept. There’s no repetition, a complete change of format, more rides, more pictures, enormous IGN maps and a whole selection of road bike rides too. We set out to create the start point for any biking adventure in the Chamonix valley. So many bikers come here every summer, for their hard-earned week away bombing singletrack in the Alps. Too many end up like me in my first summer here, completely lost with a crappy map in my hand, having a below-average time while the locals are all ripping killer trails just a ridgeline away.

Is there going to be more updates as time goes on, pdf bonus rides or a website?

Invariably things will change – trails will evolve, more will open, others will close. Important updates will be posted on our forthcoming site thechamonixbikebook.com, but I guess by about 2015 an updated book will come out.

Favourite ride in the book?

Simple, Hugh’s Way. Hugh is an old mate of mine who worked as a guide for MBMB.co.uk for a summer about five years ago. At that time we were just looking for long, cruisey, singletrack – not too techy, just full of character and flow. He showed me his way of getting down to St Gervais from the Prarion – by the end of the summer we’d decide how to go down, we always ended up going his way down, hence the name. It’s not dated a bit.

Bike ban, good thing for chamonix or not?

The bike ban isn’t going away anytime soon – in fact probably the opposite – so it’s just one of those things we have to live with. On balance I think it’s a good thing – it stops the trails becoming too brake-bumpy, and reduces the chances of bikers mangling hikers during the busy times. It also encourages bikers to come here out of season, which is good for the shops and hoteliers.

Now you’ve conquered the Chamonix guide book world, what’s next?

I’m happy, thanks. The objective of the Chamonix Bike Book is not to make money, it’s to help people enjoy this place to its full potential. Doing a guidebook anywhere else would mean having to spend quality riding time away from Chamonix, which I’m not up for!

Any shout outs to the massive!?

Yes, all the people who had the faith to advertise in the book. We really went to town on it – foil embossing, waterproof cover, the works. If it wasn’t for Zero G, POC, Yeti Lodge, Ice & Orange, Freshtraxxx, Snostation, The Kitsch’Inn, The Jekyll, Boax, Freeze, Premer Chalet Construction and The Ski Factory, we’d not have been able to turn this idea into reality. And every local biker in the valley – the riders here have dedication & passion you just don’t find elsewhere.

TEN QUICK QUESTIONS

Flatties or Spuds? Flatties

Coffee or tea? Coffee

Lycra or baggies? Lycra for the road, baggies for MTB

Dogs or cats? Both!

Full bounce or hardtail? Full bouncer! 160mm trail bike, perfect CHX rig

Beer or wine? Beer

Lift access or earn your turns? The older I get, the more I’m earning them

Ski or snowboard? Snowboard

Kylie or Danni? Both!

Poco loco or Midnight Express? Poco, Berger ham & goat’s cheese sarnie, nom

Cheers Tom.

So there you go, all you need to do now is rush out to either Zero G, POC or Maison de la Presse to get your hands on a copy, or check out thechamonixbikebook.com website once it goes live….and if that’s not got your interest, here’s a wee video from thechamonixcollective of one of the new trails in the book, especially for anyone who thinks there’s no flowing tree lined singletrack in Chamonix!

<iframe src=”http://player.vimeo.com/video/24261983″ width=”400″ height=”300″ frameborder=”0″ webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe>

Summer’s back

Summer has returned to the valley, so before it got here I was keen to get one more day of being wet, cold and miserable in and headed down to Les Houches for a few laps on the Bellevue lift.

With the change in lift operating company, the Les Houches bike park is no more (for this year….) so the north shore shenanigans that used to start the marked bike runs have gone. Fortunately the rest of the courses is still in place, and the hill is just as slippery in the wet as it used to be.

DSCF4715

Some of the board walk sections have taken a bit of a beating over the winter, and there are a couple of big trees down on the main bike track (other trails seem to have been cleared though!). There isn’t a hose at the lift station just now, though the lifty said the Intersport shop next door should have a hose for all to use soon.

Off-camber, wet boardwalk anyone?

More news soon…..

The Good, The Bad & The Ugly

Start with the good news. Ever fancied checking out the riding in Pila, La Thuile or Valtournenche-Cervinia but the drive’s too far for a day and the lift pass just a bit too much? Well, the Aosta tourist board have heard your cries and initiated the “free ride free day”. Free hotel, free lift pass and free lessons on the 29th & 30th June, follow the links… http://www.iloveaosta.co.uk/2012/05/la-thuile/ride-free-in-the-aosta-valley-this-summer

Aosta singletrack

For the bad, Compagnie du Mont Blanc are upgrading the old Plan Joran chair at Grand Montets, good news for everyone who’s had oil dripped on their lovely goretex gear no? Unfortunately it seems that plan A for constructing the chair is to create a new access road through the village of Lavancher and then up through the forest to the Lavancher bowl and on to the Plan Joran. Most importantly this will cause huge disruption to the village, which is not designed for lorries and it’s not apparent how they’ll fit past some of the houses. For bikes, the construction will take out the descent from Logan to Lavancher, the only legal way down from the Grand Montets lifts in July and August and, if there’s no way to cycle down, why would you be allowed to take a bike up? For more information check out Eric Lasserre’s blog (there’s an English translation in the “commentaires“ or comments field) http://www.blogdericlasserre.blogspot.fr/2012/06/une-route-camions-pour-la-croix-de.html

If you want to make your voice heard, the next public meeting regarding the proposals is due at the end of the month.

And as for the ugly, that’ll be the weather. Snow to 1800m right now. Still, things are looking better from Thursday at least…..

Brevant, opening for bikes in 4 days...